International Encounters in Kerikeri
Kerikeri is small, the population is just over 8,00 people. It is a gem in a rich region attractive for its warm climate, orchards of oranges and kiwifruit, grape growing and wine producing, and as a crucible of New Zealand early history. Many tourists visit the Stone Store, a Georgian building, the oldest stone structure in New Zealand overlooking the Kerikeri basin. People come here to see the birthplace of the nation, where the Treaty was signed with Maori, at Waitangi at one point of a beautiful bay, Paihia, a resort at the other end. Not surprisingly therefore Kerikeri has grown over the past 20 years, more than doubling in population on the 1996 census of under 4000. It has been voted as the “Top Small Town” in New Zealand.
Much of the new population consists of incomers, not just Kiwis from elsewhere but also from other countries. According to some locals brought up here, it has always been a multi-cultural town, attracting foreigners from all over the world. Interestingly, many of them arrived by ship, sailing into the Bay of Islands and staying. Before the Coronavirus epidemic over 60 cruise ships a year came into the bay. Someone from Paihia told me that the cruise tourists didn’t make much difference, just visiting for the cafés and the two-dollar shop. A tour bus driver told me that some passengers are so impressed by the area, they come back again for a longer stay on land.
We came here courtesy of Air New Zealand, which does five flights a day from Auckland in summer. It was a planned move to warmer climes and to be nearer to my wife’s spiritual group centre. We arrived in Kerikeri on September 1st, 2018 from the Kapiti Coast. In one year we have met many people here from such as the USA, Canada, Germany, France, Sweden, Japan, Australia, South Africa, Scotland and England. Kerikeri would seem to be not only near the “Cradle of the Nation” but also a magnet for internationals, many of them quite aged, Kerikeri either being a home for retirees or far-seeing foreigners who have been here a while. Coming from the just north of Wellington, from a town called Paraparaumu on the Kapiti Coast, we hardly ever met anyone from another country, possibly because they were enticed by Wellington’s city attractions. So it was a good surprise to find many internationals in Kerikeri.
An elderly resident from England 40 years before, told me that over 100 years ago, a fruit grower planted orange groves, but refused to use local labour for the picking. He brought them in from other countries. This goes some way to explaining how Kerikeri got many international residents.
I Googled the population of Kerikeri that is foreign. It told me the town of over 8,000 population has an outsized share of European residents (about 85%). Also it has an older population of over 51-year-olds compared to the 38-year-old national average. This combines with a big tourist population to give the solid impression of being quite international.
One person we met on arrival was Bernie from East Germany. He was caretaker of the house we were lucky enough to live in for our first month, thanks to friends who had been gifted the fine old home when their old friend Nancy Picmere, a local notable and historian of the region, died. Bernie had been living in Kerikeri for years. He was a skilled handyman and had loads of work.
Another German lived directly opposite, and she had been in Kerikeri for 17 years, her daughters joining her from Germany after the death of her husband. She was very happy in Kerikeri with her new partner.
I ran into an older man buying stuff at a veggey stall, actually probably not much older than me, and hearing him speak asked where he was from. He’d been here for years originally from southern California. As was my wont with people from there I said I was in San Francisco for the Summer of Love way back in the Sixties. He said he remembered that, then quickly corrected himself realising it that summer was in 1967. He said, “Hell no! I was in ’Nam. I told him we worked with an American in Tokyo who did three tours there! He said one was enough for him.
At the Kiwi conservation island not far from Kerikeri, the “ranger” was a Kiwi but his wife was from Japan.
At The Rainbow Falls Tea House we met a Japanese woman, who had married the owner of a nursery opposite Blue Gum Lane, not far out of Kerikeri. She said it was very hard work. Her name was Aki Baker.
All the conversations with people from other countries tend to be short, as is the way meeting strangers. But they always gave interesting insights into their lives.
Outside Bunnings hardware store sheltering from the rain before dashing to our cars, I chatted to a man from Germany, he’d been here over 20 years. I said there must have been a few changes in that time. Oh yes, many more amenities now, especially hardware stores for all the builders and DIY-ers.
On the plane from Auckland to Keri, our moving here, there was a German man, lived long in Keri, “wonderful place, best in the world.” It was the same time as a man who’d got on the wrong plane. He only found out when the steward asked if there was anyone extra on board after she’d counted heads. She told him his plane to Tauranga was just next to ours, he could still catch it! Welcome to regional flights NZ!
A brief list other internationals in our first year, 2018 – 19:
Connie, New York, lives at Bahai Centre here.
Lots of Koreans at Beth’s “fitness” centre in Kerikeri.
Scots car salesman, sold Beth’s car to her, his brother worked with Billy C. on shipyards, said he was always joking. Car man’s wife from Thailand, she sells Thai fast food next to his salesyard.
Canadian woman Judy, manager of restaurant at Ake Ake Winery.
Waitress, Errin from Minnesota (She now works at Keri Post Office).
Californian owner at Cottlehill vineyard near us, they sailed from San Diego many years before.
Woman outside clothes shop near ANZ was English. Here over thirty years. Married a Kiwi.
Dundee woman selling tartan at market, been here seven years.
Glasgow woman selling Kainui craft beer and wine at the market.
My optometrist, Anita is from Durban, South Africa.
French manager, Marie at The Honey House Café, is from near Pau.
Also there’s a Swedish waitress at The Honey House.
My doctor is from New England, USA over 10 years ago.
Another doctor on emergency appointment from Africa somewhere. Dr Ezra treated me for my bleed, told me to drink loads of water, fixed me up with urine sampling and the “williecam”. Great attention and service.
Roofing company, Waipapa – two men came to assess our roof for painting, one of them South African, been here only a few weeks.
Canadian lass in Mitre 10, told me she and her partner had been in hardware back home, just continuing the same work here.
Manager of retirement village at Rainbow Falls, from Texas many years ago.
Scots people at next table at Ake Ake one lunchtime, living at Haruru Falls, only about 15 minutes from Kerikeri.
We very seldom meet an original Kerikeri person, born here.
Suddenly on Nov. 15th I met two locals brought up here: Clare, a Jehovah’s W. looking for her friend Diane, came to the door. Her father was the first to grow kiwifruit vines for sale here back in the 1950s. She described early Keri as a fruitbowl.
Then the canvas salesman, Rodger in the afternoon said he was born here but not always lived here. He also said Keri had always been full of foreigners.
Fay, owner of Rainbow Falls Tea House, been here three years from England.
Sat. Nov. 16th At a Kemp Rd. “garage sale” at the artist’s house, Julia, just along from Waiparenga where we stayed in our first month, said Keri had always been full of outsiders. Her friend Maxine there was from London originally. Julia had been in Keri over 20 years, from Wellington originally.
At the vet’s, a young trainee from France.
Hoppy’s vet, Roger, might be a Kerikeri original.
Then with Don (came into the garage sale ??) we met an elderly Dutch couple from Maastricht (“Very beautiful, you must go!”) climbing up the back way to Kemp Rd., she was coughing a bit and explaining that it’s a breathless condition that can take months to go away. The hubby explained it’s called (sth beginning with K, I forget).
Rusty Tractor lunch Nov.9th, owner from Indonesia, a small town, very beautiful, surrounded by mountains, been here seven years, m. to a Kiwi. She was very chatty,
great that management allowed.
Brian, my chiropractor (very Kiwi!) was being reviewed by some Doctor woman on my treatment visit Fri. Nov. 22. She said she was from Winnipeg, Manitoba (as if there was a Winnipeg anywhere else).
Brian’s wife Jo at reception told me that one of his patients used to be a Black&White Minstrel in the UK. Jeez! That would a long time ago.
On my way walking to chiropractor one day, I chatted to a “hiker” going to the main road to hitch to Paihia. He was from Capetown.
Reminded me that we picked up a young lass doing the same thing, she was from Norway. So Kerikeri gets not only people coming in to live but also visiting as tourists, perhaps the stop on the way to The Bay of Islands.
Spa Pool owner in Kerikeri, Mike has a J’ese wife, he lived in Tyo 17 years working at Barclay’s! His young helper said he had an Italian girlfriend, so he’d be more likely learning Italian before J’ese when Beth asked him if he had been to Japan.
Mon. Dec. 2nd Plumbers who came to fix up cable under house for the spa pool, one them Maori, I think he said Kaitaia originally. The other English from Manchester, a United supporter.
Thurs. Dec.5th Tomoko, Mike’s wife called in with information I needed about the spa pool. Very nice to meet her, family in Nakano Sakue on the Tozai Line.
Same day I went to Little Dipper’s, asking Vicki where she was from. She said, “From here, been here over 20 years.” But before that from west Auckland!
New World checkout woman from Indonesia.
Trades Service salesperson at Mitre 10 from British Columbia, 400 miles east
of Vancouver.
Overheard in street a couple of blokes, one Englishman said :
“I’m trying to get a crew together to cross the Atlantic.”
Sun. Dec. 15, 2019 Gardener at Stone / Honey Houses, from NSW 36 years ago when she was 23. Loves NZ. Married a Maori, got two daughters, loves her gardening jobs, got 14 hours a week at the Honey House, does Sunday and Monday. Elsewhere other jobs.
Waitress, Rose at Honey House, very smiling lass, from Vermont, surprised we knew where it was. Vermont’s one of a dozen states in what’s called New England. We
learned Sat. Dec. 28th with Yukari there, that she was going to Wellington Mar. 1st to
start a Masters course in Creative Writing. Her parents have been in NZ for 8 years.
Met Australian water engineer near the Stone House, from Winden ? near Melbourne. He told us all about climate change that the scientists have known about it for decades, that when CO2 becomes 400 parts in a million or something, then it’s an emergency. NSW has reached that. His parents joined and said we were really lucky living in NZ, surrounded by water.
Lunch Xmas Day 2019 at The Plough and Feather Bar/restaurant
The waiting staff very chatty. Max a design grad. from Wellington, a couple of women one from Belarus, another from Cornwall, and Lilli from Kerikeri!
Aug. 7, 2020 Man from Western Samoa at the Hospice Store, came when he was 18 in 1964. He had a strong accent, almost French, I was surprised when he said Samoa. Told me Aggie Grey used to visit Kerikeri to see an aunt.
March, ’21
Couple from Glasgow 54 years ago with licence plate C U JIMI !
April 28 My dialogue recording of RLS Memories, with Lloyd, the dentist, turned out he’d trained in Edinburgh, dental school in Chambers St., 1979 to 1985. He was dentist in Glasgow 1992 – 2003 or something. From Yorkshire originally. He also knew someone at univ. another student who lived in a flat at 21 Heriot Row … so very near where RLS was born! Lloyd himself had a flat above Greyfriar Bobby’s Tavern!
June 3 In SPCA shop by chance handing in a box of my stuff. As I was leaving in the little corridor off the main room, a woman said, Oh everyone’s Scottish today, coz her hubby was chatting to another Scotsman from Aberdeen. I said I was born in Orkney, that’s three of us together, amazing. Had a yarn with the guy from Paisley, came out here in 1974, went to Oz in ’81 until 2006. He’s driving the SPCZ van coz the old guy doing it had to stop. He called Kerikeri cosmopolitan.
Jan. 25, 2023
Canadian woman Karen at Kerikeri Resthome Village, from outside Vancouver 32 years in Keri! “Keri was much smaller back then.”
In group of “oldies” I talked to about “Keeping Going” book, was woman from Gourock on the Clyde. She’d lived a lot in Africa. Been in Keri 8 years, loves reading, especially since her husband died in July!
This is only an extract